Its been six months and three days since I started this blog, and I have been happy with the results (thanks for all the links). But one of my goals was always to write more about deer hunting and muskie fishing.
I've started a new blog http://shootdeer.wordpress.com/ to focus only on deer hunting posts. I plan on learning about WordPress and spending time focusing some of my efforts on getting more deer hunting related traffic and attempting to teach new hunters about hunting deer.
Shoot Deer will be where I put all of my hunting posts from now on. I hope to post something every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. Many of the first posts will be copied old posts from this blog, but I will be including new posts early and often.
If all goes well, I will add a third blog about muskie fishing.
If you have any questions about hunting deer, then let me know.
Or if you would like to guest post, once or regularly, then let me know.
That's the plan, we'll see how it goes.
eltim164 at gmail.com
Showing posts with label deer hunting equipment. Show all posts
Showing posts with label deer hunting equipment. Show all posts
Thursday, January 3, 2013
Thursday, December 27, 2012
Shooting A Deer
I attempted to shoot two bucks with my bow this season. I missed one and got one. You may be able to learn from the stories of my two shots at deer with a bow this year.
Let's start with the deer story that includes a happy ending.
I picked a new treestand location this year because I wanted a stand closer to the cover than I had in previous years. I picked a tree that covered a corner of brush and trees. If deer move from the main bedding area to my big food plot, then they will pass through this corner of brush and trees.
I probably averaged seeing three 1 1/2 year old bucks each night that I sat there. So one night I first saw the standard nine does and fawns and the usual two 1 1/2 year old bucks. Then in the distance I saw another deer and a flash of some long tines over its head. I saw parts of the deer for a time straight ahead of me through lots of brush and branches. He was following a doe and I expected him to pass by me.
His tine length meant that I knew that I wanted to shoot him if I got an opportunity. He took his time walking around about 30 yards in front of me, but there were to many branches to shoot through.
I expected him to walk from in front of me to my right. While I was waiting for him to clear the brush I considered which sight pin I would use. (Bow sights often have 3 or 5 pins. You put the top pin on a target that is 20 yards away, the second on a target that is 30 yards away, etc.) I thought that if he cleared the brush at one point that he would be twenty yards away. If he cleared the brush near some taller grass, then I'd use the 30 yard pin...
And then I realized that I was thinking too much. I've shot several deer, I've shot my bow a lot. So, I stopped thinking, and when the deer presented me with a shot, I lifted my bow and shot him.
I don't remember raising my bow, I don't remember putting the sight on the deer...I just did it.
Once you have shot your bow enough and become confident that you will be successful when shooting at deer, then you to will no need to over think taking a shot.
I hit him a bit far back, but he was quartering away and the exit hole was right behind the right front leg. This hole acted as a drain and I had a solid foot wide, solid blood trail for about 30 yards until I found the dead buck.
Now that you know what to do, let's look at what not to do.
Another night I was in the same tree and saw the usual few does, fawns, and small bucks. Then a deer came from behind me ant to my right. I got a glimpse of him through a clearing, and I would have had a shot if he had given me a bit more warning before showing up.
He looked big, but I did not know how big. I heard him rub his head in some branches over a scrape, but I could not see him because a tree was between us. He looked like a nice one. But how big?
.JPG)
"HOLY SH*T!" I thought as I saw him through the trees.
I had a great look at his antlers through some tree branches, but no shot.
"I can shoot through those branches," I thought. "No, he's following that doe. He's about to give me a good shot...But I can shoot through those branches...I shouldn't. How big are his...freaking huge...don't look at the horns wait for the shot...please move, please move, please move...he's a monster...don't look at the horns; wait for a shot."
And after a while he took a few steps out from behind the tree and presented me with a picture perfect 20 yard, standing, broadside, shot.
At this point I'd like to point out the two types of releases. One type of release has a metal buckle, like your belt, and the other uses Velcro to attach to your wrist. I prefer the Velcro because there is no metal to click against anything and make a noise. The problem with my Velcro was the tag end. I did not need the full length of Velcro to attach the release to my wrist. And I was wearing a plastic mesh face-mask, to be more camouflaged.
Once I had the shot: I drew my bow, and my release's tag end made a ripping noise as it brushed against my face-mask.
When that happened all that I could think of was that I had made a noise, buck, heard it, and was about to run away.
"Shoot! Shoot! Shoot!" Was all that I could think.
I panicked, rushed my shot, and missed by a mile.
Dammit.
Let's start with the deer story that includes a happy ending.
I picked a new treestand location this year because I wanted a stand closer to the cover than I had in previous years. I picked a tree that covered a corner of brush and trees. If deer move from the main bedding area to my big food plot, then they will pass through this corner of brush and trees.
I probably averaged seeing three 1 1/2 year old bucks each night that I sat there. So one night I first saw the standard nine does and fawns and the usual two 1 1/2 year old bucks. Then in the distance I saw another deer and a flash of some long tines over its head. I saw parts of the deer for a time straight ahead of me through lots of brush and branches. He was following a doe and I expected him to pass by me.
His tine length meant that I knew that I wanted to shoot him if I got an opportunity. He took his time walking around about 30 yards in front of me, but there were to many branches to shoot through.
I expected him to walk from in front of me to my right. While I was waiting for him to clear the brush I considered which sight pin I would use. (Bow sights often have 3 or 5 pins. You put the top pin on a target that is 20 yards away, the second on a target that is 30 yards away, etc.) I thought that if he cleared the brush at one point that he would be twenty yards away. If he cleared the brush near some taller grass, then I'd use the 30 yard pin...
And then I realized that I was thinking too much. I've shot several deer, I've shot my bow a lot. So, I stopped thinking, and when the deer presented me with a shot, I lifted my bow and shot him.
I don't remember raising my bow, I don't remember putting the sight on the deer...I just did it.
Once you have shot your bow enough and become confident that you will be successful when shooting at deer, then you to will no need to over think taking a shot.
I hit him a bit far back, but he was quartering away and the exit hole was right behind the right front leg. This hole acted as a drain and I had a solid foot wide, solid blood trail for about 30 yards until I found the dead buck.
Now that you know what to do, let's look at what not to do.
Another night I was in the same tree and saw the usual few does, fawns, and small bucks. Then a deer came from behind me ant to my right. I got a glimpse of him through a clearing, and I would have had a shot if he had given me a bit more warning before showing up.
He looked big, but I did not know how big. I heard him rub his head in some branches over a scrape, but I could not see him because a tree was between us. He looked like a nice one. But how big?
.JPG)
"HOLY SH*T!" I thought as I saw him through the trees.
I had a great look at his antlers through some tree branches, but no shot.
"I can shoot through those branches," I thought. "No, he's following that doe. He's about to give me a good shot...But I can shoot through those branches...I shouldn't. How big are his...freaking huge...don't look at the horns wait for the shot...please move, please move, please move...he's a monster...don't look at the horns; wait for a shot."
And after a while he took a few steps out from behind the tree and presented me with a picture perfect 20 yard, standing, broadside, shot.
At this point I'd like to point out the two types of releases. One type of release has a metal buckle, like your belt, and the other uses Velcro to attach to your wrist. I prefer the Velcro because there is no metal to click against anything and make a noise. The problem with my Velcro was the tag end. I did not need the full length of Velcro to attach the release to my wrist. And I was wearing a plastic mesh face-mask, to be more camouflaged.
Once I had the shot: I drew my bow, and my release's tag end made a ripping noise as it brushed against my face-mask.
When that happened all that I could think of was that I had made a noise, buck, heard it, and was about to run away.
"Shoot! Shoot! Shoot!" Was all that I could think.
I panicked, rushed my shot, and missed by a mile.
Dammit.
Wednesday, December 12, 2012
Cabela's Brand Riflescopes
I've had the good fortune to shoot rifles affixed with several brands of riflescopes.
Recently I've added a Cabela's Euro Riflescope to my muzzleloader. Its only been shot a few times, but I don't know that I could tell you the difference between it and one of the 'scopes that are much more expensive. (Approx. $400 vs. $1000 for the comparables I've tried.)
Recently I've added a Cabela's Euro Riflescope to my muzzleloader. Its only been shot a few times, but I don't know that I could tell you the difference between it and one of the 'scopes that are much more expensive. (Approx. $400 vs. $1000 for the comparables I've tried.)
Despite not yet shooting a buck with one of these 'scopes, I'm quite impressed with it.
Sunday, December 9, 2012
A Word About Muzzleloaders
Shooting muzzleloaders can be fun. In many states there is a dedicated muzzleloader deer season. This was put in place so that hunters could claim that they are forced to use more traditional weapons, for more of a challenge.
Here in Wisconsin the muzzleloader rules have been relaxed. You don't need to unload your gun while traveling (just remove the primer) 'scopes with magnification are allowed, etc. This, with the advances in modern muzzleloaders, means that the only drawbacks for hunters using them is the slow second shot and the pain that they are to clean.
We now have nine days of a rifle, or shotgun, or pistol, or crossbow, or muzzleloader season, then the next seven days are a dedicated muzzleloader season. This is an irritant. Why not allow the use of whatever firearm during the firearm season.
Were I in charge of the regulations for the Wisconsin firearm deer seasons the first thing that I would do is combine the standard season with the muzzleloader season.
The way the rules work are just complex and seemingly designed to make following the rules as difficult as possible.
What's the difference in hunting with a rifle, a shotgun, or a muzzleloader anyway?
If you are forced to hunt with a muzzleloader, or miss hunting days, then buy a very modern one (even those that are ten years old are much worse) and run a cleaning patch through after every shot. They can be a big pain to clean after several shots.
In conclusion: our hunting regulations are stupid and hunting with muzzleloaders is more of a cleaning pain than a memory of a time when muzzleloaders were all that was available.
Here in Wisconsin the muzzleloader rules have been relaxed. You don't need to unload your gun while traveling (just remove the primer) 'scopes with magnification are allowed, etc. This, with the advances in modern muzzleloaders, means that the only drawbacks for hunters using them is the slow second shot and the pain that they are to clean.
We now have nine days of a rifle, or shotgun, or pistol, or crossbow, or muzzleloader season, then the next seven days are a dedicated muzzleloader season. This is an irritant. Why not allow the use of whatever firearm during the firearm season.
Were I in charge of the regulations for the Wisconsin firearm deer seasons the first thing that I would do is combine the standard season with the muzzleloader season.
The way the rules work are just complex and seemingly designed to make following the rules as difficult as possible.
What's the difference in hunting with a rifle, a shotgun, or a muzzleloader anyway?
If you are forced to hunt with a muzzleloader, or miss hunting days, then buy a very modern one (even those that are ten years old are much worse) and run a cleaning patch through after every shot. They can be a big pain to clean after several shots.
In conclusion: our hunting regulations are stupid and hunting with muzzleloaders is more of a cleaning pain than a memory of a time when muzzleloaders were all that was available.
Wednesday, December 5, 2012
Wednesday, October 24, 2012
Scent Proof Hunting Clothing
One of the things that is very helpful while deer hunting is not smelling, and alerting deer by the smell of your presence.
Many hunters wear their camouflage outside of hunting situations. This is a mistake. When you wear your hunting clothing it may collect the smells from wherever it is worn. I recently walked buy a guy in his hunting coat in a grocery store. He reeked of smoke. That smoke smell will alert deer that there is something unnatural around. You may get away with it while hunting only small bucks and young does but big bucks will not want to be near you.
Don't wear your hunting clothing outside of the woods. Avoid wearing it while filling up with gas, in particular.
I've owned three different articles of clothing that were made by companies advertising thier products' containment of smell.
I have a coat and pants, which are a few years old and out of date, from Scent Lok. The coat is the best hunting coat that I have ever worn and the pants are the best camouflage pants that I have ever worn. They seem to have been well made; I have has zero issues with them being worn. And they were very well designed. The pants, for example, have pockets alongside the knee, but rather than having the pockets opening face up while you are standing the opening is perfectly designed to be accessible while you sit. The coat has excellent pockets as well, and great materials were used in both.
I have also worn a pair of Scent Shield boots. They were very badly made and very badly designed. The zipper that was meant to keep the boots tight always, always, got stuck in the materiel behind it. Never have I struggled with a zipper half as much as I struggled with that zipper. When they were on, the top wrap that was meant to keep the top tight was held together with snaps. The snaps were on the inside and rubbed against each other while I walked, so they were always undone and always clicking. Those boots just got junked when I busted the zipper when I tried to reconnect the sliding part with the locking part.
The coat, pants, and boots are all around four years old. I don't know how much they've improved, and I don't know which is better at containing scent. But I liked the Scent Lok stuff and the Scent Shield stuff was junk.
Many hunters wear their camouflage outside of hunting situations. This is a mistake. When you wear your hunting clothing it may collect the smells from wherever it is worn. I recently walked buy a guy in his hunting coat in a grocery store. He reeked of smoke. That smoke smell will alert deer that there is something unnatural around. You may get away with it while hunting only small bucks and young does but big bucks will not want to be near you.
Don't wear your hunting clothing outside of the woods. Avoid wearing it while filling up with gas, in particular.
I've owned three different articles of clothing that were made by companies advertising thier products' containment of smell.
I have a coat and pants, which are a few years old and out of date, from Scent Lok. The coat is the best hunting coat that I have ever worn and the pants are the best camouflage pants that I have ever worn. They seem to have been well made; I have has zero issues with them being worn. And they were very well designed. The pants, for example, have pockets alongside the knee, but rather than having the pockets opening face up while you are standing the opening is perfectly designed to be accessible while you sit. The coat has excellent pockets as well, and great materials were used in both.
I have also worn a pair of Scent Shield boots. They were very badly made and very badly designed. The zipper that was meant to keep the boots tight always, always, got stuck in the materiel behind it. Never have I struggled with a zipper half as much as I struggled with that zipper. When they were on, the top wrap that was meant to keep the top tight was held together with snaps. The snaps were on the inside and rubbed against each other while I walked, so they were always undone and always clicking. Those boots just got junked when I busted the zipper when I tried to reconnect the sliding part with the locking part.
The coat, pants, and boots are all around four years old. I don't know how much they've improved, and I don't know which is better at containing scent. But I liked the Scent Lok stuff and the Scent Shield stuff was junk.
Tuesday, October 16, 2012
Hang On / Chain On Treestands
One of the most common ways to hunt whitetail deer is to hunt them from a treestand. There are several tree stand styles. This post will focus on the hang on, or chain on style, because I think that it is the best style, most of the time.
There are two parts to a hang on, or chain on, treestand: the stand and the steps that get you up the tree to the stand.
I look for 3 main things when buying a hang on tree stand: weight, size, price. I want the biggest, lightest, cheapest quality stand. Other things that are nice: a small seat with an optional seat cushion, wide at the back, a seat that moves out of the way, and a footrest.
DO NOT buy a cheap stand; you will regret it each time that you haul that monstrosity up a tree.
Let's look at some treestands (skip to the end if you want to see my recommendations):
The Gorilla King Kong HX is similar, but a little worse, 3 pounds heavier and $150 cheaper. The Gorilla Silverback Magnum HX is also similar, but a bit worse, 1 pound lighter and $100 cheaper.
Positives:
A very, very, very small and lightweight treestand. Very similar to the Gorilla Silverback Scout HX. This is a good stand, but the similar Gorilla is also good and 1/2 pound lighter and about 1/2 the price as this Assault II.
Positives:
Basically a step. You lean away from the tree against your safety strap, while standing on a tiny square.
Positives:
Negatives:
Cheap. These are cheap treestands, although I could not find a price online, I have seen them in stores for around $60-100. There are several model variations.
Positives:
They look great, but they are less good than you'd like. Optional T- screw is used to screw into the tree and then you can hang the stand on the screw while you secure it with the straps.
Positives:
Awesomely comfortable seat, but it is difficult to maneuver around. It has a seat level adjuster screw and set screw; turn it one way and ? happens, turn it the other way and ? happens.
Positives:
The original Gorilla King Kong was near perfect, the newer ones are less so. I recommend it, although I've not used it, I have used the Expedition HX which is similar.
17 pounds is okay, but 2-3 pounds less would be better. Add a footrest, make it wider at the back, and lighter and it would be about perfect, especially at this price. (Those improvements that I just listed are mutually exclusive.)
Positives:
Same as the King Kong HX, but with added comfort accessories. Get one only if you absolutely need the additional comfort accessories. Skip it otherwise.
Positives:
A smaller, cheaper, heavier (11 vs. 15 pounds) Lone Wolf Assault II.
Positives:
Same as the Expedition HX but with added comfort accessories. At 29 pounds you may as well build a tree house.
Positives:
Aluminum King Kong. Aluminum means less weight and more price. And yet this price is not bad.
Positives:
Same as the Kong, or Lone Wolf Assault II, but in aluminum, which means lighter and a higher cost. Its the one I would use if I needed to move it frequently and a climber is not an option. It would also be good if you need to carry it a long way.
Positives:
Popular manufacturer. I don't like the look of it.
Positives:
Popular manufacturer. I don't like the look of it. Good weight.
Positives:
Popular Manufacturer. I don't like the look of it.
Positives:
Small and it looks good.
Positives:
Looks fine.
Positives:
I like the name, "Muddy Hunter." 14 pounds is light. If money were no object...
Positives:
Looks just about perfect and with a good price, but 18 pounds is too much for a positive and any more weight would make its weight a negative.
Positives:
22 pounds is too heavy, but it looks comfortable. My dad just ordered one in the mail and I had not realized that it weighs 22 pounds, drat.
Positives:
A small stand with a big price.
Positives:
A stand designed for trees that are twisted or lean. Will go up trees that no other stands do. The owners of the company seem to be good guys.
Positives:
A stand designed for trees that are twisted or lean. Will go up trees that no other stands do. The owners of the company seem to be good guys.
Positives:
The creators of Rapid Rails deserve no product descriptions here.
***
Gorilla Silverback Scout HX - its lighter and $110 cheaper than the Lone Wolf Assault II
Gorilla King Kong HX - $109.99 is a great price for a great stand, (I still prefer the original, and no longer available, King Kong). For $40 more you can get a Gorilla Silverback Magnum HX which is aluminum and therefore a few pounds lighter.
Muddy Hunter - bested the Gorilla Silverback Magnum HX by virtue of its footrest and superior floor shape, bested the Lone Wolf Alpha Hang On II by virtue of its width, solidness, and footrest.
Of the best all around stands, at any price, the Gorilla Silverback Magnum HX is cheapest at $159.99 versus $199.99 for the Muddy and $259.99 for the Lone Wolf.
***
All photos are from their manufacturer's website, which is linked through each item's name.
There are two parts to a hang on, or chain on, treestand: the stand and the steps that get you up the tree to the stand.
I look for 3 main things when buying a hang on tree stand: weight, size, price. I want the biggest, lightest, cheapest quality stand. Other things that are nice: a small seat with an optional seat cushion, wide at the back, a seat that moves out of the way, and a footrest.
DO NOT buy a cheap stand; you will regret it each time that you haul that monstrosity up a tree.
Let's look at some treestands (skip to the end if you want to see my recommendations):
Lone Wolf Alpha Hang On II $259.99
This stand has a legitimate argument for being the best hang on treestand, at any price. Aluminum means less weight and a higher price.
The Gorilla King Kong HX is similar, but a little worse, 3 pounds heavier and $150 cheaper. The Gorilla Silverback Magnum HX is also similar, but a bit worse, 1 pound lighter and $100 cheaper.
 |
| Lone Wolf Alpha Hang On II |
Positives:
- lightweight at 14 pounds
- few exposed straight lines, there are no straight lines in nature
- no paint to wear off
- foam seat cushion is optional
- easy to use straps
- price
- footrests are only optional
Lone Wolf Assault II $239.99
A very, very, very small and lightweight treestand. Very similar to the Gorilla Silverback Scout HX. This is a good stand, but the similar Gorilla is also good and 1/2 pound lighter and about 1/2 the price as this Assault II.
 |
| Lone Wolf Assault II |
Positives:
- lightweight at 11 pounds (Amazingly light!)
- few exposed straight lines, there are no straight lines in nature
- no paint to wear off
- foam seat cushion is optional
- easy to use straps
- very easy to seat up, use, carry, and store
- Very small, minimum acceptable size, for average sized guys 150-220lbs
- big price, small stand
- footrests optional
Lone Wolf Assassin $239.99
Basically a step. You lean away from the tree against your safety strap, while standing on a tiny square.
 |
| Lone Wolf Assassin |
Positives:
- lightweight at 6.5 pounds
- few exposed straight lines
- very concealable
Negatives:
- just a square to stand on
- no seat
- huge price for an aluminum square
Rivers Edge Big Foot (Several Variations)
Cheap. These are cheap treestands, although I could not find a price online, I have seen them in stores for around $60-100. There are several model variations.
Positives:
- cheap
- some models are big
- some models have footrests
- many weigh more than 20 pounds (Avoid the 28 pounders at all costs!)
- did I mention that they are heavy?
- wide posts between the seat and floor (this makes putting them up some trees difficult)
- the seat is nearly unusable without the
squirrel beddingwater collectorseat cushion - did I mention that they are heavy?
Family Tradition Lok-On
They look great, but they are less good than you'd like. Optional T- screw is used to screw into the tree and then you can hang the stand on the screw while you secure it with the straps.
 |
| Family Tradition Lok-On |
Positives:
- looks good
- quality stand
- the seat has straps and a bar at the front of the seat, if you sit you will loose circulation in your legs
- footrest is too small for two feet and too far away
- while sitting, my feet don't touch the floor
- the plate that you hang around the T-stake is sharp and is unsuitable for carrying the stand up a tree
Gorilla Expedition HX $149.99
Awesomely comfortable seat, but it is difficult to maneuver around. It has a seat level adjuster screw and set screw; turn it one way and ? happens, turn it the other way and ? happens.
 |
| Gorilla Expedition HX |
Positives:
- Most comfortable seat of any treestand that I've ever tried
- good footrest
- quality stand
- 20.5 pounds
- big seat is difficult to maneuver around
- is the seat replaceable?
Gorilla King Kong HX $109.99
The original Gorilla King Kong was near perfect, the newer ones are less so. I recommend it, although I've not used it, I have used the Expedition HX which is similar.
17 pounds is okay, but 2-3 pounds less would be better. Add a footrest, make it wider at the back, and lighter and it would be about perfect, especially at this price. (Those improvements that I just listed are mutually exclusive.)
 |
| Gorilla King Kong HX |
Positives:
- quality stand
- optional seat cushion
- good seat
- ideal-ish price
- no footrest
Gorilla King Kong Lounger HX $159.99
Same as the King Kong HX, but with added comfort accessories. Get one only if you absolutely need the additional comfort accessories. Skip it otherwise.
 |
| Gorilla King Kong Lounger HX |
Positives:
- quality stand
- good footrest
- comfortable seat
- other comfort accessories
- way too heavy at 21 pounds
- too many comfort accessories (I'm in my twenties and find that the comfortable things just get in the way. If I wanted comfort, I'd stay at home.)
Gorilla Kong HX $89.99
A smaller, cheaper, heavier (11 vs. 15 pounds) Lone Wolf Assault II.
 |
| Gorilla Kong HX |
Positives:
- good price
- quality stand
- good seat
- seat cushion optional
- small
Gorilla Pro-Series King Kong Expedition HX $179.99
Same as the Expedition HX but with added comfort accessories. At 29 pounds you may as well build a tree house.
 |
| Gorilla Long Name Treestand |
Positives:
- quality stand
- good footrest
- many comfort accessories
- its name is too short
way too heavylaughably heavy at 28.8 pounds- comfort accessories get in the way
Gorilla Silverback Magnum HX $159.99
Aluminum King Kong. Aluminum means less weight and more price. And yet this price is not bad.
 |
| Gorilla Silverback Magnum HX |
Positives:
- lightweight at 13 pounds
- good seat
- seat cushion optional
- 13 pounds!
- no footrest
Gorilla Silverback Scout HX $129.99
Same as the Kong, or Lone Wolf Assault II, but in aluminum, which means lighter and a higher cost. Its the one I would use if I needed to move it frequently and a climber is not an option. It would also be good if you need to carry it a long way.
 |
| Gorilla Silverback Scout HX |
Positives:
- very lightweight at 10.5 pounds (1/2 pound lighter than the Lone Wolf Assassin II!)
- good seat
- seat cushion is optional
- small
- no footrest
Summit rsxEagle Hang-On Stand $199.99
Popular manufacturer. I don't like the look of it.
 |
| Summit rsxEagle Hang-On Stand |
Positives:
- lightweight at 14 pounds
- popular manufacturer
- floor not mesh, deer will look up and see a black rectangle
- stupid looking seat (I imagine crushing my you know what.)
- too expensive
Summit rsxHawk Hang-On Stand $169.99
Popular manufacturer. I don't like the look of it. Good weight.
 |
| Summit rsxHawk Hang-On Stand |
Positives:
- lightweight at 13.5 pounds
- good seat size/ shape
- seat near unusable without the
squirrel beddingwater collectorseat cushion - too much floor materiel, deer will look up and see a big black rectangle
- could be small (I didn't care enough to check its dimensions)
Summit rsxOsprey Hang-On Stand
Popular Manufacturer. I don't like the look of it.
 |
| Summit rsxOsprey Hang-On Stand |
Positives:
- big
- popular manufacturer
- 19.5 pounds
- too much materiel in the floor, a deer will look up and see a black rectangle
- seat near unusable without the
squirrel beddingwater collectorseat cushion
Muddy Bloodsport $219.99
Small and it looks good.
 |
| Muddy Bloodsport |
Positives:
- good looking seat
- mesh floor
- small
- big price/ small stand
- no footrest
- weight?
Muddy Hunter Pro $179.99
Looks fine.
 |
| Muddy Hunter Pro |
Positives:
- looks solid
- good looking seat
- small
- big price/ small stand
- no footrest
Muddy Hunter $199.99
I like the name, "Muddy Hunter." 14 pounds is light. If money were no object...
 |
| Muddy Hunter |
Positives:
- 14 pounds
- footrest
- good looking seat
- price
Muddy Outfitter Steel $149.99
Looks just about perfect and with a good price, but 18 pounds is too much for a positive and any more weight would make its weight a negative.
 |
| Muddy Outfitter Steel |
Positives:
- big
- good looking seat
- footrest
- weight, maybe, at 18 pounds
Ol' Man The Roost $149.99
22 pounds is too heavy, but it looks comfortable. My dad just ordered one in the mail and I had not realized that it weighs 22 pounds, drat.
 |
| Ol'Man The Roost |
Positives:
- comfortable
- big
- footrest
- 22 pounds
- is the seat replaceable after the squirrels chew it off?
- armrests (they'll get in the way)
- 22 pounds
- 22 pounds
Ol'Man Alumalite FPS $199.99
A small stand with a big price.
 |
| Ol'Man Alumalite FPS |
Positives:
- 14 pounds
- good looking seat
- small
- 14 pounds is more than the other small stands
- mesh floors are prefered
Twisted Timber Big Bruiser $199.99
A stand designed for trees that are twisted or lean. Will go up trees that no other stands do. The owners of the company seem to be good guys.
 |
| Twisted Timber Big Bruiser |
Positives:
- fills a niche that has gone unfilled by everyone else
- floor shaped just how I'd shape it
- softest foam seat cushion that I've ever felt
- good seat
- big
- 16.55 pounds is good for a big stand
- no footrest
- price
Twisted Timber Trail Cruiser $199.99
A stand designed for trees that are twisted or lean. Will go up trees that no other stands do. The owners of the company seem to be good guys.
 |
| Twisted Timber Trail Cruiser |
Positives:
- 13.95 pounds
- fills a niche not filled by other stands (can go up leaning trees)
- good seat
- no footrest
- price
- small
Ameristep
The creators of Rapid Rails deserve no product descriptions here.
***
My vote for the best small stand (lightness should be key):
|
| Gorrila Silverback Scout HX |
Gorilla Silverback Scout HX - its lighter and $110 cheaper than the Lone Wolf Assault II
My vote for the best stand, for a price:
|
| Gorrila King Kong HX |
My vote for the best hang on treestand, at any price:
|
| Muddy Hunter |
Muddy Hunter - bested the Gorilla Silverback Magnum HX by virtue of its footrest and superior floor shape, bested the Lone Wolf Alpha Hang On II by virtue of its width, solidness, and footrest.
Of the best all around stands, at any price, the Gorilla Silverback Magnum HX is cheapest at $159.99 versus $199.99 for the Muddy and $259.99 for the Lone Wolf.
***
All photos are from their manufacturer's website, which is linked through each item's name.
Wednesday, October 10, 2012
Your First Deer Rifle
Since one of my goals in writing this blog is to inform novice deer hunters, I thought that it would be good to have a description of the type of deer rifle that you should get. If you are looking to start deer hunting, then a rifle is one of your necessities.
(You should note that some places do not allow you to hunt with a rifle, and you must use a shotgun, pistol, or muzzleloader during the firearms season.)
You have two main choices when deciding on a deer rifle: bolt-action or semi-automatic. Both have their advantages and disadvantages. There are other types of rifles that you could use with success. But if your goal is to shoot deer, and not to be stylish or to make the hunt as difficult as possible, then you'll want either a bolt-action or a semi-auto.
Bolt and semi automatic are two different types of gun action. A gun's action is the way a gun puts a cartridge into place (at the breach, or back end, of the barrel) for a shot. There are all sorts of actions for guns, but either a bolt or semi automatic should be your choice for hunting deer.
Let's look at bolt actions first, because they came first chronologically.
Sporting rifles have generally followed the technology of the military's weapons. Since the adoption of the Mauser '98 rifle as the German armed forces' official small arm (in 1898) the bolt-action rifle has been the standard big game hunting weapon. A bolt-action rifle has many advantages over its predecessor, the lever action rifle. One important advantage is the fact that you can operate a bolt action without removing your eye from your target. Another advantage is that a bolt-action allows you to use conical (pointed) bullets. In a lever rifle the cartridges are stored end to end. And a pointed bullet would have a tendency to fire the cartridge in front of it. In a bolt rifle the cartridges are stored vertically, and therefore pointed bullets can be used.
The way a bolt action works is: A spring loaded magazine pushes cartridges up from below the bolt. When you lift the bolt handle up then back the top cartridge in the magazine moves up in front of the bolt. Then you push the bolt forward to put the cartridge into place for a shot. Then the bolt handle is rotated down to lock the bolt into place. These steps are repeated for each shot.
One advantage that a bolt action rifle has over a semi automatic is that a bolt action is more accurate. If you plan on shooting past two or three hundred yards then this may be a significant advantage. At less than two hundred yards you probably won't be able to tell the difference in accuracy between a good bolt and a good semi auto.
Another advantage is the simplicity of a bolt action. The fewer moving parts should make it more reliable, although you may not notice the difference so long as you maintain your gun well.
Eventually the U.S. military switched to a semi-automatic rifle as its standard small arm. Due to the "assault weapon" ban in the '90's many styles of semi automatics were banned from the public. Since that stupid law has expired there has been a rise in hunters using semi automatics.
There are two main shapes of semi automatic rifles. But both work the same way. The big differences between the two are:
The way a semi -automatic works is a bit more complicated than bolt actions. The parts that you should know are: A magazine spring pushes cartridges up against the bottom of the bolt (same as a bolt action). Instead of a large handle, there is a small tab, or similar, that you pull back as far as possible and this allows the top cartridge to rise in front of the bolt. Then you let the bolt go and it slams forward and the cartridge is pushed into place in front of it.
Then when you pull the trigger the recoil of the shot pushes the bolt backwards. During this after shot motion the fired (spent) cartridge is ejected out of the side and the next one rises into place in front of the bolt. Then a spring moves the bolt and the cartridge in front of it forward and back into place. This process (from trigger pull to bolt movement back to bolt movement forward) is repeated each time that you pull the trigger, until the magazine is empty.
A semi automatic rifle requires a trigger pull for each shot, while a fully automatic rifle can shoot multiple times with one trigger pull. But otherwise they work the same way.
The big advantage that a semi automatic has over a bolt action is the speed with which you can fire your second shot. For the most part, while deer hunting, this will not matter because you should only use one shot per deer. But having a, slightly quicker, second shot at the ready can be useful and it is comforting to have in the back of your mind.
A disadvantage of hunting with a semi automatic is that you need to let the bolt slam forward after each time the magazine is filled. This is loud and may scare deer. My dad lost a buck once because he tried to slow the slamming of the bolt and it did not correctly seat the cartridge, and it did not fire.
A non-hunting advantage to a semi auto is if the country descends into chaos once we finally go bankrupt, then it would be a good idea to defend yourself with a gun with more firepower than a bolt action provides. A bolt action is what you want if you are going to sneak up on your target and only use one shot. A semi auto or [essentially] illegal fully automatic weapon is what you want if you need to defend yourself against multiple targets.
The Winchester Model 70 is the standard bolt action rifle. Once it became a success other manufacturers started to make similar rifles with a "7" in their name; notably the Remmington Model 700 and Ruger Model 7.
There are all sorts of bolt action rifles and semi auto rifles that you can get. And after deciding on your desired action, the next step is to pick out a gun model. Many companies make fine bolt action rifles:
Kimber
Remmington
Ruger
Sako
Winchester
Good semi automatic manufacturers:
Colt
Remmington
Ruger
There are other good rifle manufacturers but all of these make fine weapons.
I personally like the lightweight Kimber 84M
Once you've picked your action, make, and model you'll need to choose your cartridge.
Which I'll look at in another post.
Check out my new deer hunting specific blog Shoot Deer.
(You should note that some places do not allow you to hunt with a rifle, and you must use a shotgun, pistol, or muzzleloader during the firearms season.)
You have two main choices when deciding on a deer rifle: bolt-action or semi-automatic. Both have their advantages and disadvantages. There are other types of rifles that you could use with success. But if your goal is to shoot deer, and not to be stylish or to make the hunt as difficult as possible, then you'll want either a bolt-action or a semi-auto.
Bolt and semi automatic are two different types of gun action. A gun's action is the way a gun puts a cartridge into place (at the breach, or back end, of the barrel) for a shot. There are all sorts of actions for guns, but either a bolt or semi automatic should be your choice for hunting deer.
Let's look at bolt actions first, because they came first chronologically.
Sporting rifles have generally followed the technology of the military's weapons. Since the adoption of the Mauser '98 rifle as the German armed forces' official small arm (in 1898) the bolt-action rifle has been the standard big game hunting weapon. A bolt-action rifle has many advantages over its predecessor, the lever action rifle. One important advantage is the fact that you can operate a bolt action without removing your eye from your target. Another advantage is that a bolt-action allows you to use conical (pointed) bullets. In a lever rifle the cartridges are stored end to end. And a pointed bullet would have a tendency to fire the cartridge in front of it. In a bolt rifle the cartridges are stored vertically, and therefore pointed bullets can be used.
The way a bolt action works is: A spring loaded magazine pushes cartridges up from below the bolt. When you lift the bolt handle up then back the top cartridge in the magazine moves up in front of the bolt. Then you push the bolt forward to put the cartridge into place for a shot. Then the bolt handle is rotated down to lock the bolt into place. These steps are repeated for each shot.
 |
| Winchester Model 70 |
One advantage that a bolt action rifle has over a semi automatic is that a bolt action is more accurate. If you plan on shooting past two or three hundred yards then this may be a significant advantage. At less than two hundred yards you probably won't be able to tell the difference in accuracy between a good bolt and a good semi auto.
Another advantage is the simplicity of a bolt action. The fewer moving parts should make it more reliable, although you may not notice the difference so long as you maintain your gun well.
Eventually the U.S. military switched to a semi-automatic rifle as its standard small arm. Due to the "assault weapon" ban in the '90's many styles of semi automatics were banned from the public. Since that stupid law has expired there has been a rise in hunters using semi automatics.
There are two main shapes of semi automatic rifles. But both work the same way. The big differences between the two are:
- the tactical version was illegal thanks to the "assault weapons" ban
- the tactical version shoots smaller bullets
- the tactical version gives you more places to add "stuff" (like flashlights, etc)
 |
| Remmington Model 750 Woodsmaster |
 |
| Remmington Model R-15 Bushmaster |
The way a semi -automatic works is a bit more complicated than bolt actions. The parts that you should know are: A magazine spring pushes cartridges up against the bottom of the bolt (same as a bolt action). Instead of a large handle, there is a small tab, or similar, that you pull back as far as possible and this allows the top cartridge to rise in front of the bolt. Then you let the bolt go and it slams forward and the cartridge is pushed into place in front of it.
Then when you pull the trigger the recoil of the shot pushes the bolt backwards. During this after shot motion the fired (spent) cartridge is ejected out of the side and the next one rises into place in front of the bolt. Then a spring moves the bolt and the cartridge in front of it forward and back into place. This process (from trigger pull to bolt movement back to bolt movement forward) is repeated each time that you pull the trigger, until the magazine is empty.
A semi automatic rifle requires a trigger pull for each shot, while a fully automatic rifle can shoot multiple times with one trigger pull. But otherwise they work the same way.
The big advantage that a semi automatic has over a bolt action is the speed with which you can fire your second shot. For the most part, while deer hunting, this will not matter because you should only use one shot per deer. But having a, slightly quicker, second shot at the ready can be useful and it is comforting to have in the back of your mind.
A disadvantage of hunting with a semi automatic is that you need to let the bolt slam forward after each time the magazine is filled. This is loud and may scare deer. My dad lost a buck once because he tried to slow the slamming of the bolt and it did not correctly seat the cartridge, and it did not fire.
A non-hunting advantage to a semi auto is if the country descends into chaos once we finally go bankrupt, then it would be a good idea to defend yourself with a gun with more firepower than a bolt action provides. A bolt action is what you want if you are going to sneak up on your target and only use one shot. A semi auto or [essentially] illegal fully automatic weapon is what you want if you need to defend yourself against multiple targets.
The Winchester Model 70 is the standard bolt action rifle. Once it became a success other manufacturers started to make similar rifles with a "7" in their name; notably the Remmington Model 700 and Ruger Model 7.
There are all sorts of bolt action rifles and semi auto rifles that you can get. And after deciding on your desired action, the next step is to pick out a gun model. Many companies make fine bolt action rifles:
Kimber
Remmington
Ruger
Sako
Winchester
Good semi automatic manufacturers:
Colt
Remmington
Ruger
There are other good rifle manufacturers but all of these make fine weapons.
I personally like the lightweight Kimber 84M
 |
| Kimber 84M |
Once you've picked your action, make, and model you'll need to choose your cartridge.
Which I'll look at in another post.
Check out my new deer hunting specific blog Shoot Deer.
Saturday, September 29, 2012
Broadheads
I recently read a magazine article about which broadheads are best for shooting deer. The article concluded by saying that some guys prefer some broadheads and others prefer others. I thought that this was totally useless.
I've shot about 12 deer with a bow. The first 8 were shot with a Bear Razorhead.
These were the traditional broadhead invented by Fred Bear. (The picture is of broadheads from 1959, 1960, and 1964.)
My experience with them was to miss my first two shots at deer. Although the broadhead I shot the second time is still stuck in the then 1" diameter tree that I didn't see and hit instead of the deer.
My third shot at a deer hit a buck in the heart, he did a u-turn and ran about 30 yards.
My fourth shot at a deer hit a buck in the back leg. He ran in a large arc and I saw a softball sized amount of blood run down his leg. he went about 80 yards.
My fifth shot at a buck also hit the buck in the back leg, he went 60 yards (I don't recommend hitting the deer there, and I don't know how I did.)
I've shot 3 other bucks in the heart or lungs, and one a bit too far back, with a Bear Razorhead all went less than 60 yards.
I also shot a fawn with a Bear Razorhead. I hit both lungs and the deer fell down, got up, and fell down again.
I have recovered every deer that I have ever hit with a Bear Razorhead. No matter my poor shot placement.
Those broadheads are questioned by some because they have a big flat surface which can "plane," or curve through the air. This may, perhaps, explain my poor shot placement.
Bear Razorheads have become hard to find. So I have switched to the standard Muzzy 3 blade.
Muzzy Picture
I have hit several bucks with a Muzzy 3 blade. Of those that I have recovered: two went about 70 yards, one about 50 yards, and one went about 20 yards. I also hit one in the guts that went 50 yards and bedded for about an hour. He then got up and disappeared. I hit a buck, that would have scored around 140 B&C last year, in the front shoulder. I had blood drops for 70 yards and then they stopped.
I decided to stay with fixed blade broadheads because I do not like the idea of an expandable not expanding. A fixed blade does not need to expand.
I liked the Muzzy 3 blade because it has three blades and should, therefore, not "plane" while in-flight.
After, just now, reviewing my experiences I am reminded that I am not satisfied with these Muzzys.
Ideally, I think, a broadhead should be:
When I have looked at broadheads in the past it seemed that I could find only two of those three points in any one broadhead.
I will most likely stick with the Muzzys this year, but I would like to find a broadhead that meets all three of my three qualifications.
I've shot about 12 deer with a bow. The first 8 were shot with a Bear Razorhead.
 |
| Bear Razorhead Broadheads |
My experience with them was to miss my first two shots at deer. Although the broadhead I shot the second time is still stuck in the then 1" diameter tree that I didn't see and hit instead of the deer.
My third shot at a deer hit a buck in the heart, he did a u-turn and ran about 30 yards.
My fourth shot at a deer hit a buck in the back leg. He ran in a large arc and I saw a softball sized amount of blood run down his leg. he went about 80 yards.
My fifth shot at a buck also hit the buck in the back leg, he went 60 yards (I don't recommend hitting the deer there, and I don't know how I did.)
I've shot 3 other bucks in the heart or lungs, and one a bit too far back, with a Bear Razorhead all went less than 60 yards.
I also shot a fawn with a Bear Razorhead. I hit both lungs and the deer fell down, got up, and fell down again.
I have recovered every deer that I have ever hit with a Bear Razorhead. No matter my poor shot placement.
Those broadheads are questioned by some because they have a big flat surface which can "plane," or curve through the air. This may, perhaps, explain my poor shot placement.
Bear Razorheads have become hard to find. So I have switched to the standard Muzzy 3 blade.
 |
| Muzzy 3 blade screw-in |
I have hit several bucks with a Muzzy 3 blade. Of those that I have recovered: two went about 70 yards, one about 50 yards, and one went about 20 yards. I also hit one in the guts that went 50 yards and bedded for about an hour. He then got up and disappeared. I hit a buck, that would have scored around 140 B&C last year, in the front shoulder. I had blood drops for 70 yards and then they stopped.
I decided to stay with fixed blade broadheads because I do not like the idea of an expandable not expanding. A fixed blade does not need to expand.
I liked the Muzzy 3 blade because it has three blades and should, therefore, not "plane" while in-flight.
After, just now, reviewing my experiences I am reminded that I am not satisfied with these Muzzys.
Ideally, I think, a broadhead should be:
- fixed (not expandable)
- have 3 blades (to prevent "plane-ing")
- have long blades that start at the tip (unlike the Muzzys).
When I have looked at broadheads in the past it seemed that I could find only two of those three points in any one broadhead.
I will most likely stick with the Muzzys this year, but I would like to find a broadhead that meets all three of my three qualifications.
Tuesday, September 25, 2012
Which Deer To Shoot
We are now into the Wisconsin archery season. One question to ask yourself every year is, which deer will you shoot?
When you just start out in deer hunting you should shoot the first deer with antlers that you can. When you start hunting with a bow, you should shoot the first buck that you can.
There are many places where there are restrictions on the minimum size of the bucks that you can shoot. Some of these rules come from state laws, some from the clubs that own the land, and some from the local peer pressure.
I'm lucky enough to hunt where there are no such minimum size limits. and there are still big deer around (B&C 160 +). I would even prefer to hunt a place without size limits even if that meant I had fewer big bucks around. Because I like shooting deer. If I could, and there were no negative side effects, I would be happy to try and shoot every buck that I have the opportunity to. And rules are never fun.
However, there are less than desirable results if you shoot every buck. If you shoot lots of bucks then there will be fewer around next year, when they'll be bigger. For a long time everyone shot any deer with antlers. And they considered themselves lucky to do so. Since most of us have been letting smaller bucks go more, and more big bucks have been shot. Bucks that would have been shot years ago are now being passed by and we are seeing more big bucks as a result. When I first started hunting, in 1999, is was common for most deer registration stations to be full of 1 1/2 year old bucks and 3 1/2 year old bucks were not common. Now the smallest bucks are often bigger than the average bucks that we used to see.
Many times on the hunting TV shows we see the hunter's struggle to decide what to shoot. If the hunter has an opportunity at a nice buck on the first day they are hesitant to end their trip so early. It can be the same for us, over the course of a season. But if you decide not to shoot a buck because it is early in the season, then you'll run quite a risk of not shooting a buck at all.
I have been a great beneficiary of the letting smaller bucks go policy. I have shot 22 bucks and could because I was allowed to shoot smaller bucks when I was younger. Even most places with size limits allow people younger than some age to shoot whatever they can to experience it for the first time.
It is much more difficult to shoot bigger bucks, and not just because they are rare or smarter. But also because rather than just glancing at the deer's head, we now need to study the look of the antlers for a while in order to decide if the buck is big enough. This means the deer needs to be in position for much longer than he would need to be if we were only looking for a set of horns.
Since we let bucks go now, we each need to decide how big of a buck we will shoot. It is good to have an idea beforehand. If you wait until you see a buck to decide if its big enough, then they will often disappear before you make up your mind.
For almost all of us a bigger set of antlers is better than a smaller set of antlers. Therefore, the biggest set of antlers is the goal we wish to shoot. But most places will never see a 200" buck. And there is no point in waiting for a buck that will never arrive. So what we want is the biggest buck that we have a reasonable chance to get.
My goal each year is to shoot a buck. But with my increasing personal size limit that is getting harder and harder. A reasonable goal, I think, is to have an idea of how big the bucks get where you hunt and hope for one at the top end to give you a shot.
Here in central Wisconsin most of us, if we hunt enough, will get an opportunity, or two, at a 3 1/2 year old buck. Around here that will mean a set of antlers with between a 16" and 19" inside spread. (Ear tip to ear tip is around 15" on an adult whitetail deer.) And that buck will score around 120" to 140".
Last year, 2011, I had three opportunities at 3 1/2, or older, bucks. (Missed with my bow, hit a shoulder blade with an arrow, and missed a standing shot at 8 yards with a rifle. Pretty poor showing from me.) This gives me a good idea that if I hunt as much as I did last year, then I'll have an opportunity, or two at a 3 1/2 year old buck.
Think about what you saw last year. Pick out the top three or four and plan on shooting only one of them if he comes along. This is a pretty fair size to shoot, it seems to me.
There's no point in waiting for a bigger buck than you'll ever see. And shooting one of the biggest bucks in the area is always something to be proud of, no matter the deer's size.
If you are just starting out, then shoot the first buck you have the opportunity to. Regardless of its size, your first few bucks will be more enjoyable even than bigger bucks later.
After you've decided to shoot only bigger bucks, then I suggest moving to shooting only 2 1/2 year old bucks or bigger. Once you've shot enough of them, you should increase your minimum to 3 1/2 year old bucks and bigger. After that move your minimum up until you hit the age of the top few deer in your area, even if they only get to 2 1/2 years old where you hunt.
I'd never speak ill of a hunter who shoots any buck with antlers (unless that particular hunter is a dickhead). Because shooting bucks is fun.
If you want information on where the biggest bucks have been shot in the past, you should check out the QDMA Whitetail Map Guide.
When you just start out in deer hunting you should shoot the first deer with antlers that you can. When you start hunting with a bow, you should shoot the first buck that you can.
There are many places where there are restrictions on the minimum size of the bucks that you can shoot. Some of these rules come from state laws, some from the clubs that own the land, and some from the local peer pressure.
I'm lucky enough to hunt where there are no such minimum size limits. and there are still big deer around (B&C 160 +). I would even prefer to hunt a place without size limits even if that meant I had fewer big bucks around. Because I like shooting deer. If I could, and there were no negative side effects, I would be happy to try and shoot every buck that I have the opportunity to. And rules are never fun.
However, there are less than desirable results if you shoot every buck. If you shoot lots of bucks then there will be fewer around next year, when they'll be bigger. For a long time everyone shot any deer with antlers. And they considered themselves lucky to do so. Since most of us have been letting smaller bucks go more, and more big bucks have been shot. Bucks that would have been shot years ago are now being passed by and we are seeing more big bucks as a result. When I first started hunting, in 1999, is was common for most deer registration stations to be full of 1 1/2 year old bucks and 3 1/2 year old bucks were not common. Now the smallest bucks are often bigger than the average bucks that we used to see.
Many times on the hunting TV shows we see the hunter's struggle to decide what to shoot. If the hunter has an opportunity at a nice buck on the first day they are hesitant to end their trip so early. It can be the same for us, over the course of a season. But if you decide not to shoot a buck because it is early in the season, then you'll run quite a risk of not shooting a buck at all.
I have been a great beneficiary of the letting smaller bucks go policy. I have shot 22 bucks and could because I was allowed to shoot smaller bucks when I was younger. Even most places with size limits allow people younger than some age to shoot whatever they can to experience it for the first time.
It is much more difficult to shoot bigger bucks, and not just because they are rare or smarter. But also because rather than just glancing at the deer's head, we now need to study the look of the antlers for a while in order to decide if the buck is big enough. This means the deer needs to be in position for much longer than he would need to be if we were only looking for a set of horns.
Since we let bucks go now, we each need to decide how big of a buck we will shoot. It is good to have an idea beforehand. If you wait until you see a buck to decide if its big enough, then they will often disappear before you make up your mind.
For almost all of us a bigger set of antlers is better than a smaller set of antlers. Therefore, the biggest set of antlers is the goal we wish to shoot. But most places will never see a 200" buck. And there is no point in waiting for a buck that will never arrive. So what we want is the biggest buck that we have a reasonable chance to get.
My goal each year is to shoot a buck. But with my increasing personal size limit that is getting harder and harder. A reasonable goal, I think, is to have an idea of how big the bucks get where you hunt and hope for one at the top end to give you a shot.
Here in central Wisconsin most of us, if we hunt enough, will get an opportunity, or two, at a 3 1/2 year old buck. Around here that will mean a set of antlers with between a 16" and 19" inside spread. (Ear tip to ear tip is around 15" on an adult whitetail deer.) And that buck will score around 120" to 140".
Last year, 2011, I had three opportunities at 3 1/2, or older, bucks. (Missed with my bow, hit a shoulder blade with an arrow, and missed a standing shot at 8 yards with a rifle. Pretty poor showing from me.) This gives me a good idea that if I hunt as much as I did last year, then I'll have an opportunity, or two at a 3 1/2 year old buck.
Think about what you saw last year. Pick out the top three or four and plan on shooting only one of them if he comes along. This is a pretty fair size to shoot, it seems to me.
There's no point in waiting for a bigger buck than you'll ever see. And shooting one of the biggest bucks in the area is always something to be proud of, no matter the deer's size.
If you are just starting out, then shoot the first buck you have the opportunity to. Regardless of its size, your first few bucks will be more enjoyable even than bigger bucks later.
After you've decided to shoot only bigger bucks, then I suggest moving to shooting only 2 1/2 year old bucks or bigger. Once you've shot enough of them, you should increase your minimum to 3 1/2 year old bucks and bigger. After that move your minimum up until you hit the age of the top few deer in your area, even if they only get to 2 1/2 years old where you hunt.
I'd never speak ill of a hunter who shoots any buck with antlers (unless that particular hunter is a dickhead). Because shooting bucks is fun.
If you want information on where the biggest bucks have been shot in the past, you should check out the QDMA Whitetail Map Guide.
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